For today’s post I will combine two days, because, quite honestly, the first day was mostly spent on a long, leisurely train ride from Prague to Budapest, with a splash of “Oh my gosh” at the end of the day with a visit to Castle Hill.
Our Thursday started early, WAY too early, before the sun chose to peek through the clouds, as we made our way to the train station in Prague.
In the train station we saw this really moving memorial to Sir Nicholas Winton, who saved 669 Czech children from the nazis by sending them on a train to the UK and sparing them from the wrath of the Holocaust. This memorial is heartbreaking because it depicts the final good-bye between parents and children. The parents were all sent to the death camps and the children were safe (they were allowed to send kids because at the time of the transport the children did not need visas because they were so young). Just look closely at the memorial, small hands of the children and larger hands of the parents seeming to reach for each other. My eyes tear up just thinking about it and the unthinkable decision a parent had to make to send their young child to the unknown in order to protect them. Would we have the same strength?
We made our way to our train platform to wait to board.
The ride was beautiful, filled with good conversations and naps all around.
We arrived safely to beautiful Budapest! We found Agi, our local educator and loaded up our bus and headed for Castle Hill, an ideal spot to get our Budapest bearings. On our way Agi shared that she grew up in communist Hungary and did not find her Judaism until she was 19 and in Paris. Her parents chose to stay in Hungary after the war because they considered themselves Hungarians more than they considered themselves Jews.
She shared that there were 120,000 Jews in Budapest now. While the Holocaust was horrible for them with more than half of the population incinerated at the crematorium of Auschwitz, the ghetto ended up being liberated and not liquidated. Agi shared that there is a sparkling Jewish life in Budapest today. We learned that there are two parts to Budapest, Buda is on one side of the river and is hilly and Pest is on the other and is much flatter. Agi shares that the city is really safe, and that safety is because of the prime minister/dictator who she said she wouldn’t vote for, but recognizes that there are some benefits.
This was our ride up to the top of Castle Hill. So much fun!!
At the top we were able to look down on the beauty of the city and really see how the Danube river separates the hilly Buda area from the flat lands of Pest.
Pictured above is the Parliament building, the largest in Europe (and some would say with the least amount of democracy). We were surprised at how many people we met who outwardly criticized their government.
We walked atop Castle Hill, a UNESCO World Heritage site, named after Budapest Castle, which was built in the 13th century and now houses the Hungarian National Gallery and other major cultural institutions. We wandered the cobblestones streets and we appreciated the remarkable rebuilding of this area that was reduced to rubble during World War 2.
We were in awe of the beautiful Matthias Church cathedral up on top of the hill. I must have taken a thousand photos of this and the surrounding buildings.
This morning we woke to a snow filled Budapest. It was so beautiful!
We made our way into the Jewish quarter to explore and learn about the history of the Jews in this area. On the way we took a bus tour along stylish Andrassy Avenue with its palaces and mansions. Home in the 19th century to aristocrats and bankers, it is now also a chic street of designer stores, upscale boutiques, and the glorious state opera house. We viewed Hero’s Square and saw the iconic statues commemorating 1000 years of Hungarian tribes, leaders and kings.
We began our exploration of the story of Jewish Budapest over the past 160 years by visiting the Dohany Street Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe and the 4th largest in the world.
Bring them home now!
The outside of the synagogue was so majestic, towering over the street. It was quite a site to behold. As we were waiting for our entrance time we took a walk to see a much smaller structure, the small statue of Theodore Herzl, who was born in 1860 in Budapest.
Ron shared that Herzl was the most important figure in practical Zionism. When he was 18 his family moved to Vienna where he witnessed the tragic Dreyfus affair, which was a political scandal that divided the Third French Republic from 1894 until its resolution in 1906. In December, 1894 Captain Alfred Dreyfus, who was Jewish, was wrongfully accused and convicted of treason for communicating French military secrets to the German Embassy in Paris. He was sentenced to life in prison. Herzl was a journalist at the time in Paris and was particularly impacted by the antisemitic rallies that followed the trial and convictions including the chanting of “Death to the Jews.” Herzl became convinced that the only solution to antisemitism was to create a Jewish state.
He helped to organize the First Zionist Congress in 1897 and declared that within 50 years there would be a Jewish state, a homeland for the Jews in what was then called Palestine. And, he was almost exactly right as Israel was granted statehood in 1948, 49 years after this declaration. He also predicted that there would be a holocaust in Europe against the Jews. Sadly, he was right about this, too. Herzl died when he was just 44 years old.
Agi shared that Budapest became a ghetto in November, 1944, after the Holocaust finally reached Hungary in March 1944 when Hungary tried to change sides from supporting Hitler to the Allies, and Germany decided to invade and take control. More than half of the Jews in Hungary were sent to the death camps, mainly Auschwitz between May 15 and July 9, 1944. Hungary had a pre-war Jewish population of 825,000, and over the 7 weeks more than 434,000 were sent to Auschwitz, with more to be murdered in the coming months.
When the ghetto was liberated in January of 1945 (only a short time after establishing the ghetto following the deportations to Auschwitz), there were 100,000 Jews living in the ghetto and another 25 to 30,000 that were hiding in Hungary because of the acts of righteous gentiles or in abandoned apartments.
We walked into the synagogue, built in 1859, for our first look. If we thought the outside was impressive, the interior was breathtaking.
Above is the drape that covers the ark that held 19 Torah scrolls before the war. They were hidden in the basement of the National Museum of Hungary by two gentile archeologists.
As we sat int he front row, out of the cold Budapest air, Agi continued with the Jewish history of Budapest and this incredible synagogue. Following the war, Budapest was under communist control, which meant no religion. Most of the Holocaust survivors left after the war and then again in 1956, there was another mass exodus during the Hungarian Revolution.
Agi shared that she talked with one of the volunteers at the synagogue who was dismayed at the fact that most Hungarian Jews only come to temple twice a year on the High Holy Days. But perhaps we should appreciate the full part of the half-empty glass. This lack of religious involvement is understandable because of the devastation of World War 2 and communism. Jewish life here is upside down, as Agi explains. She sees the fact that there is even a Judaism at all given the history is amazing. That is quite a perspective.
The synagogue has two floors for the women to sit in while the men sit on the floor. This is because the women should have an equal number of seats. We learned that this synagogue is used only between Pesach and Simchat Torah, during the warmer months. This is because to heat such a huge sanctuary that holds 3,000 people would cost a fortune, and they quite simply cannot fill the seats. Agi recalls that the synagogue has only been full for the memorial service following the October 7 attack in Israel and when there is the annual cultural festival.
During World War 2, there were 26 bombs that hit near here, but, thankfully, none penetrated the synagogue.
We learned about the lengthy restoration process, funded by prominent Hungarian Jews and the government, who wanted to encourage tourism. Today, 80% of the visitors are not Jewish, but all visitors learn about the Holocaust in Hungary.
We left the beauty of the sanctuary and headed out into the cold towards our next stop, a cemetery in the courtyard next to the synagogue.
We can see the stones, but these are not traditional graves. After the war, the Hungarians found piles of dead bodies on this location, 2281 to be exact, some who died by execution by the nazis and some who died by starvation. They decided to bury them in mass graves on this spot. While not truly kosher according to Jewish laws and practice, the bodies were treated with the respect that they deserved and given a final resting place here between the Dohany Street synagogue and The Heroes Temple.
Above are pictures of the Wall of Heroes, honoring those who fought and died during World War 1.
We spoke of Hannah Senesh, a Hungarian poet born in Budapest, who volunteered during World War 2 as a paratrooper and who was caught and tortured by local authorities. She was executed in November, 1944 at the age of 23. Her poetry continues to inspire people today, as she is famous for her Eili Eili that has become one of the most famous pieces of Jewish music. We would sing this piece in the next synagogue we visited.
We then went and visited the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park, with many monuments and sculptures dedicated to the victims of the Holocaust and righteous gentiles who saved the lives of Jews during World War 2.
This weeping willow tree sculpture allows for people connected to those who were murdered during the Holocaust to honor their loved ones by purchasing a leaf on this tree (all proceeds go to helping to maintain the Dohany Street Synagogue). A reminder of the darkness of the Holocaust, when turned upside down the sculpture resembles a Chanukiah, symbolizing light.
A memorial plaque for Wallenberg and other righteous people who helped to save Jews.
This sculpture is supposed to show the flames of Auschwitz, with the blue at the top representing hope. Perhaps the flames represent the devastation and the blue is the hope of the Jewish community today.
These four granite slabs have names of righteous gentiles who helped to save the Jews. While the horrors of the Holocaust are present, the fact that so many tried to help lightens the darkness a bit.
Leaving the Wallenberg Memorial Park and heading to the next synagogue we came upon these stumbling stones. Another powerful moment of memory.
Another beautiful synagogue, this one has a bima in the center of the room (we learned that with the renovation and restoration this actually can be lowered into the floor to create more open space).
The synagogue was built in 1872 in a style that resembles the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, one of the holiest of sites in Islam.
We learned that sadly, during World War 2, a bomb hit the synagogue just above the ark and caused severe damage. Also, perhaps even more sadly, the people could not afford to repair the building so it was given to the government, who decided to make it into a convention center. There was no need for a formal bima or ark, so those were removed.
The government decided to restore the synagogue and the restoration was completed in 2021, and the multi-purpose space is used as a synagogue and a concert hall. It is stunningly beautiful.
It was my honor to stand on this bima and lead our community in the singing of Eili Eili in honor of local poet Hannah Senesh.
After an extended break for lunch (and Judaica shopping), we went to our next stop, the Budapest JCC, established in 1994. Here we met staff members who are on the front lines of building Jewish community in Budapest.
We learned about the three pillars of their mission. The first is Experience, which includes things like cultural events and film festivals, Mitzvah Day and other experiential moments that create connection. The second pillar is Knowledge, wanting information about Judaism to be accessible through children’s tales, holiday ambassadors to help show how families can bring back Jewish holidays and rituals into their homes, and card games that guide people through rituals and holidays. The third pillar is Action, and this includes acts of social responsibility, caring for minorities, society and marginalized people. Of all the pillars this has become more and more important, especially with the current government.
We all left the JCC feeling inspired by their dedication to bringing back vibrant Jewish life to Budapest, a place that was decimated by the nazis during the war. It reminded me a lot of my visit to the Krakow JCC in 2015 and I have continued to support their activities as Jewish life is reborn in the shadow of Auschwitz. I look forward to being a partner with this JCC to help strengthen Jewish community building in Budapest.
We went back to the hotel to have some time to rest before heading to Shabbat at the Frankel Synagogue.
We started our evening by meeting with Linda Vero-Ban, the wife of Rabbi Tomas Vero. We learned a little about the Neolog movement in Hungarian Judaism, and found out it falls closest to conservative Judaism in the states, with some elements leaning orthodox. For example they separate the men and women during services and this service would be without accompanied music. But they also have an active BBYO chapter, the only in Budapest, that has been growing over the past 9 years. Linda’s focus is on the youth in the community.
We learned that the synagogue was built in 1888 (the rabbi joked it was finished in August, month 8, in 1888). The apartment building that towers over all sides of the synagogue was built after, with the local Jewish community living there until the Holocaust. Sadly, there are no Jews living there now, having been deported to Auschwitz with those who caused their demise moving in.
We got to ask questions of Linda, and her work with the youth of the synagogue. She explained that her goal with the kids is to create a positive Jewish identity for them, not just have them associate being Jewish with the darkness of the Holocaust. It is not as much about prayer as it is about the overall Jewish self. Leasa and I discussed how when Carly was making latkes for the first time she and I would FaceTime so I could help her. For most of these young Jews, the only help they can get is from YouTube videos, not from family. There is an entire generation missing from the equation. How lucky I am to have my parents who served as an example for me, and I hope my girls feel lucky that Leasa and I are their example. To not have any of that support from family would be devastating and difficult to navigate.
We moved into the synagogue for the service. I have to say, while the service was beautiful (you can ask me about the Chazan’s INCREDIBLE operatic voice), I did not like sitting away from Leasa. It is so rare that I get to be a Jew in the pew, and it just feels wrong to be away from her. I have similar feelings when visiting the Wall in Jerusalem. While I understand and respect the reasons for the separating of men and women, it just does not define my Judaism. I guess it solidifies the fact that I am a proud Reform Jew who finds more meaning in wrapping my arms around my wife and daughters in prayer than I find in sitting away from them. It makes me appreciate Temple Adat Elohim for the values we hold dear and the way we choose to pray.
Following the service we went to Cyrano’s, a delicious restaurant with some young adults from the Frankel Synagogue community. On the way we caught a view of the pedestrian mall. So beautiful!
During dinner Leasa, Marcia and Harold Gordon and I were joined by David, a 21 year old Hungarian Jew. During our fantastic meal we were able to ask questions of David, and he of us. We talked about so many topics, with many of our questions centered around Hungarian politics and how the youth of Hungary feel about the situation there. He offered similar criticism of the current administration that we have heard before. David asked us about Judaism in America among other topics and our conversation was lively and enlightening. The two and a half hour meal flew by. Some of my favorite moments of trips like this are connecting with both our travelers and locals.
Tomorrow we have a free Shabbat morning before boarding our bus to head to another bucket list item on our itinerary, the Shoes on the Danube memorial. It is hard to believe that our trip is drawing to a close, with so many memories made, so many connections deepened, and so many life-changing moments that we will hold close forever.
Shabbat shalom!
No comments:
Post a Comment